By Stephen C. Rafe

For decades now, we’ve heard professionals talk about “bolding up” a dog on birds. We’ve seen them stroke the tail up and heard them “sweet-talk” a dog on whoa or point. We’ve seen them apply just enough pressure to a dog’s rump when it’s on a bird to get them to resist and become even more solid. And I remember Paul Long telling me and showing me how to take a dog with a low-slung back (lack of confidence) and “pump ‘em up like a bicycle tire.” Best of all, these tricks of the trade worked – and they continue to work.

You can actually change a dog’s disposition through tactics like these. I’ve done it with a dozen of dogs and taught hundreds of owners the methods. First, a bit of history behind the method.

In 1961, psychologist William James demonstrated the connection between body language and behavior in his book, Psychology, the Briefer Course. He pointed out that when you change the body, you also change the mind. To get technical for a moment, nerves travel from all parts of the body to the brain, and messages travel both ways along the nerve (neuronal) pathways. For example, if you assume the postures of confidence, the mind will “conclude” that you feel “confident.”

Testing Strength/Confidence

In my seminars, I sometimes do a demonstration to show the strong relationship between physical postures and the emotional states of the individual. I test the strength of volunteers first by having them assume confident postures. They hold their heads high and their chins up, they pull their stomachs in, expand their chests, square their shoulders, look straight at me, and so on. While they do this, I have them hold out their strongest arm and resist me while I pull down on it. Then I repeat the test but have the same people assume insecure postures. (The opposite of those described.)

The result? They become much weaker when they assume insecure positions – just seconds after they have shown high strength levels while assuming confident postures. To prove the validity of the demonstration, I then following up by having the same volunteers re-assume confident postures and let me test them again. In seconds, their strength is restored.

Now, what does this mean for dogs? Well, what if you can turn a timid dog into a bold one just by putting it in confident postures – and reinforcing the dog for those postures? Here’s how it works: If, for example, a dog’s ears are back and its tail is down, the dog if likely to be exhibiting submissive, insecure, or even timid behavior at that moment; but one must take into account the positions and actions of all the dog’s other signaling body parts (back carriage, leg angulations, chest width, shoulder spacing, mouth articulation, eyes, etc.). However, we all know such a dog when we see one.

What causes Submissiveness?

Some pups may have been submissive or low-ranking going all the way back to the litter. In other cases, something could have happened to make pup more submissive at one of the critical learning periods that have already passed: age 11 to 13 weeks, and five and a half to six and a half months. (The first one is at approximately six weeks.) In addition, some of the dog’s interactions with humans in the household could be creating or maintaining the submissive behavior. That could range from humans’ voice tones and body language the dog interprets as “dominant,” to what is called “inadvertent reinforcement” of the behavior (submissiveness or other), which occurs when the owner tries to “reassure” the dog through petting (of voice, such as saying, “It’s okay”) when the dog is displaying the behavior.

Changing a Dog’s Disposition

To a certain extent, you can change a dog’s disposition just by reinforcing the desired confident positions when they occur naturally. A simple, soothing “good” will anchor the process. However, this is a time-consuming approach when used alone and would be better used in conjunction with physical manipulation and reinforcement. Simply by stroking, massaging, or applying light pressure that doesn’t evoke resistance, we can get the dog to assume bolder postures. Then we can lock in the gradual changes through positive reinforcement (praise, treats, and so on). Gradually, the dog’s entire body can b e moved into positions that display the style we’re looking for.

Step-by-Step

When starting with a very submissive dog, at first, present the back of your open hand (fingers curled under), and pet the dog lightly for about five minutes wherever it’s comfortable. It is most likely to tolerate being petted if you keep your hand low and pet its haunch or shoulder first.

Once the dog accepts this, gradually ease your hand, still palm down, under its chin and pet the dog there for a few minutes. Use only one hand to avoid causing the dog to perceive your “clasping” as a threat. Stay low to the ground and continue to avert your eyes.

The Head. As you pet the dog under the chin, gradually try to ease its head slightly higher. If the dog raises its head even an inch at this stage, that is an improvement. Reinforce with, “Good.” If the dog resists firmly, you may be applying too much pressure. Relax the dog more with petting and then try again. If the resistance is extreme, you will have to go back to an earlier stage at which you both can be successful and then move up again.

The Ears. Once the dog accepts being petted under the chin, start easing your hand gradually around to the side of its neck. With one finger, feel the direction in which the ear is pointed. Most likely it will be directed toward the back of the dog’s heal. Your goal over the next several sessions will be to massage each ear upward from the “root” and ease it forward. For each improvement, no matter how slight, be sure to say, “Good.” Of course, you should alternate the ears periodically.

The Mouth. Over the next several sessions, gradually pet the dog’s mouth away from the submissive grin (corners of the mouth pulled back) and toward a more relaxed, confident posture. Remember to reinforce even slight improvements. Don’t be surprised if the dog’s ears start assuming a more timid position again as you first start dealing with its mouth. Just be patient and work primarily on the mouth, but give occasional attention to the ears.

The Chest. Next, go back to petting the dog under the chin. This time, work lower in the chest area. Your goal will be to get the dog to willingly spread it legs wider apart – a more confident stance. Reinforce even slight improvements.

The Groin. By now, the dog should be ready to accept further, non-threatening physical contact. Start petting the dog down its side. From time to time, brush your hand lightly against the inguinal area (where the dog’s back legs meet its side). Contact with this area can soothe and relax a dog that is clearly ready to accept it.

The Tail. Many timid dogs will have begun to relax their tails from the tucked position after this much contact. Over several more sessions, move your hand across the dog’s haunches as you continue petting. Gradually ease your way down to the dog’s tail.

However, if the dog is still fearful and the tail is still tucked, you will need to relax it gradually. We have generally found dogs to accept this if you make the first contact about three inches or so from the root of the tail and work with that area. You should ease a finger or two under the tail if it is pressed tight, and apply only enough pressure to encourage the dog to relax it slightly.

With some dogs, you may have to divert their attention to cause the tail to loosen. If so, give the dog a treat each time it assumes a more confident posture with one of the other body parts. Then, while the dog is consuming the treat, start easing the tail up slightly. Be sure to reinforce even small improvements with, “Good.”

Standing Taller. Until now, you have remained crouched at the dog’s side for each session. Form this point on; you can start becoming more upright until the dog can tolerate you standing over him. Continue to improve and maintain the dog’s confidence postures. If your dog has been sitting or lying down at any time during previous sessions, this is acceptable. However, he must be standing in the sessions that follow.

Approach the dog in a non-threatening way, or allow it to approach you. Reinforce this acceptance with, “Good.” Now, pet the dog in the chest area first. As you are able to widen the dog’s stance, occasionally pat the chest area. Eventually, you will be able to “thump” this area in a friendly way.

The Back and Legs. Over several more sessions, shift the petting to the dog’s back. As you stroke the dog, press just firmly enough to cause him to resist your pressure. You will trigger what is called the dog’s “opposition reflex.” Just be careful not to press in such a way that you cause the dog to lie down or sit. Reinforce the dog when he pushes back because that will encourage him to stand taller. This is part of the posture of confidence.

If the dog has carried his shoulders pressed together, this is a good time to start helping it widen the space between them. Apply hand pressure against the muscles on the outside of the shoulders as you pet the dog. Again, you want the dog to resist. This will help cause the shoulder blades to open a bit wider each time.

In Conclusion

It stands to reason that we can influence a dog’s disposition through physical manipulation of its signaling body parts (primarily the ears, head carriage, mouth, shoulders, chest, back, legs, and tail). The good news is that if this is repeated on a regular basis and we don’t reinforce submissive displays, over time the dog’s changed disposition tends to become its new personality.

This article was written by Steven Rafe for the Pointing Dog Journal May/June 2006 Issue